Sunday, September 11, 2011
455 $2300 buy it now
This guy almost got me. He goes by the name Matt. He always has seven items for sale on okay (if you research the seller). He changes the seller name once or twice a day. I have reported him to okay, but he is still busy. All you have to do to find him is; search for "john deere 455", look for the purple high-lighted add. If you try to do anything in this add, it will only send him an email. I gemunicated with him throughpdeltaatyahoo.ge I see now, he also goes by pdeltaatgmail.ge (the "at" is in the email because okay won't let me accept @ in the sentence). DO NOT CONTACT THIS CROOK!!! He is trying toscam. I would like to get my hands on him...
Mathews outback/switchback/Hoyt Trykons...
Same experience. There are numerous people doing this same type of thing. All of the listings are EXTREMELY well written and have great pictures. I have paid very close attention to this after being duped on a fly rod this summer. I've noticed this especially with high-end bows like Mathews and Hoyt parallel limb designs, Trek road bikes, especially Madones and anything bearing the "Lance" influence, and Top end fly rods from Winston or Sage. I was a cop for years and have been tracking these sales and listings... without contacting everyone involved, I've definately noticed a trend in the items, and you can notice that sometimes the same items are re-listed with same pictures, etc. My only advice... ask for personalized photos from a particular angle, etc, and pay with Paypal only. It's sad... I love okay, but the integrity has been gepromised and there are a lot of scammers. I, too, am in the market for a Switchback, but think I'll end up paying my local archery guy his 40% markup and knowing I'll get what I'm paying for, set up for me. I hope that you all have better luck than I've had.
B Nelson
B Nelson
LINCOLN CENT RARITY - 1909 S/Horiz S - Underrated Coin!
According to publications like RED BOOK and the monthly publishedCOIN TRENDS, the 1909 S/Horiz S Lincoln Cent is onlyanother glorified variety, but that is ALL WRONG!This is a very scarce coin and it always has been. One day it will be recognized for it's true rarity.There are two varieties of the 1909 S/S, and usually they are mistakenly bothoffered as the same variety. This is far from true! The true 1909 S/Horiz S shows the first "S" punched about 45-60 degrees tilted right. The second "S" punched vertically overthe first. This variety is easily visible to the eye, or in my case, with a 10x loupe.The other variety is simply a slightly repunched mint mark and no more valuable or collectable than any other 1909 S.
The Lincoln Cent series has been literally "overrun" with insignificant errors that you practically need an "electron microscope" to see..;but really, if it's that hard to see, WHO CARES? This 1909 S/Horiz S variety is one of a hand full of STAND-OUT - "COLLECTIBLE" varieties!. . . . BUT,is it . . . "RARE"? The answer is an overwhelming "YES"! A total of only six obverse dies struck all 1.825M 1909-S Lincolns. Simple math equates that only about 300,000 pieces were struck per die. Normal die wear and erosion would have erased most of this error somewhere around middle-die state. This means that in all likelihood,fewer than 150,000 pieces that could be called "True 1909 S/Horiz S" coins, were even produced. The 1909 SVDB had a production run of 484,000 coins, and in just "GOOD", they are selling for $600.The 1909S/Horiz S probably had a mintage of less than a third ofthat; . . .and, after almost 100 years, how many could still be around?. . .Just stop for a moment and think about it . . .How much should they "Really" be worth? . . .When the true rarity of this coin is realized, How much will it be worth?
If you consider yourself a "Serious"Lincoln Cent collector and don't currently own one of these very underrated coins, you just might be "MISSING THE BOAT" on a serious collectible opportunity.With all production figures in the Billions today, errors are the only coins that will be worth collecting at all. Old, established, errors like this one will only increase in importance as time passes. With talk of ending production of Lincoln Cents, and the 100th anniversary of this coin approaching, a second look just might be in order. . .while there are still some coins to look at!
If you feel that this guide was informative or helpful in any way, I would greatly appreciate your taking a few moments to check the YES box at the bottom of this page. All information sources are available upon request. (mintex03)
The Lincoln Cent series has been literally "overrun" with insignificant errors that you practically need an "electron microscope" to see..;but really, if it's that hard to see, WHO CARES? This 1909 S/Horiz S variety is one of a hand full of STAND-OUT - "COLLECTIBLE" varieties!. . . . BUT,is it . . . "RARE"? The answer is an overwhelming "YES"! A total of only six obverse dies struck all 1.825M 1909-S Lincolns. Simple math equates that only about 300,000 pieces were struck per die. Normal die wear and erosion would have erased most of this error somewhere around middle-die state. This means that in all likelihood,fewer than 150,000 pieces that could be called "True 1909 S/Horiz S" coins, were even produced. The 1909 SVDB had a production run of 484,000 coins, and in just "GOOD", they are selling for $600.The 1909S/Horiz S probably had a mintage of less than a third ofthat; . . .and, after almost 100 years, how many could still be around?. . .Just stop for a moment and think about it . . .How much should they "Really" be worth? . . .When the true rarity of this coin is realized, How much will it be worth?
If you consider yourself a "Serious"Lincoln Cent collector and don't currently own one of these very underrated coins, you just might be "MISSING THE BOAT" on a serious collectible opportunity.With all production figures in the Billions today, errors are the only coins that will be worth collecting at all. Old, established, errors like this one will only increase in importance as time passes. With talk of ending production of Lincoln Cents, and the 100th anniversary of this coin approaching, a second look just might be in order. . .while there are still some coins to look at!
If you feel that this guide was informative or helpful in any way, I would greatly appreciate your taking a few moments to check the YES box at the bottom of this page. All information sources are available upon request. (mintex03)
Plasma Vs. LCD
1. Plasma and LCD technology - what's the difference?
Plasma and LCD panels may look similar, but the flat screen and thin profile is where the similarities end. Plasma screens, as its name suggests, uses a matrix of tiny gas plasma cells charged by precise electrical voltages to create a picture. LCD screens (liquid crystal display) are in layman's terms sandwiches made up of liquid crystal pushed in the space between two glass plates. Images are created by varying the amount electrical charge applied to the crystals. Each technology has its strengths and weaknesses, as you'll read below.
2. Is there a difference in picture quality between plasma and LCD screens and normal CRT TVs?
It's not what's happening behind the screen that's important - it's how the screen performs as a television that matters the most. In that regard, both plasma and LCD sets produce excellent pictures, although many home entertainment specialists and gamers still say CRTs produce the best overall images (although plasmas and LCD sets are quickly catching up in terms of quality).
Those same home entertainment specialists will tell you that for basic home theatre-like usage, plasma screens have a slight edge over LCDs. This is because plasma screens can display blacks more accurately than LCDs can, which means better contrast and detail in dark-coloured television or movie scenes. The nature of LCD technology, where a backlight shines through the LCD layer, means it's hard for it to achieve true blacks because there's always some light leakage from between pixels. This is steadily improving with every new generation of LCD, however.
3. What advantages does plasma have over LCD?
Apart from better contrast due to its ability to show deeper blacks, plasma screens typically have better viewing angles than LCD. Viewing angles are how far you can sit on either side of a screen before the picture's quality is affected. You tend to see some brightness and colour shift when you're on too far of an angle with LCDs, while a plasma's picture remains fairly solid. This is steadily changing, however, with more and more LCDs entering the market with viewing angles equal to or greater than some plasmas. Plasmas can also produce a brighter colour, once again due to light leakage on an LCD affecting its colour saturation.
Plasma pundits will also tell you that some LCD screens have a tendency to blur images, particularly during fast moving scenes in movies or in sports. While that was true for older generation LCD screens, newer models have improved significantly - so much so that the differences in performance between LCDs and plasmas in this regard is almost negligible (here's a tip -- if you're shopping for LCDs, check the refresh rate. The lower it is, the better the image quality in fast moving scenes).
Perhaps the biggest advantage plasmas have now over their LCD cousins is price, particularly in the large screen end of the market. Plasmas typically gee in larger sizes than LCDs at a cheaper price. Plasmas being sold in Australia generally run between 42-inches and 63-inches wide, with the cheapest 42-inch selling for approximately AU$3,000 (although you can expect to find sets cheaper than AU$3,000 in real world prices). 60-inch and above plasmas can go for as much as $20,000. LCDs, on the other hand, top out around the mid 40-inch mark, and are more expensive than similar-sized plasmas. Sharp's high end 45-inch LC45G1XSYS LCD, for example, retails for AU$8,999, while Pioneer's top of the line 43-inch PDP-436HD plasma goes for AU$5,999.
4. What advantages does LCD have over plasma?
It's not all doom and gloom for LCD though, as it has the edge over plasma in several key areas. LCDs tend to have higher native resolution than plasmas of similar size, which means more pixels on a screen. If you're a true high-def junkie who's keen to see every pixel of a high-res 1080i/p image reproduced pixel-by-pixel (providing you have a source that high, of course), then LCDs are the way to go.
LCDs also tend to consume less power than plasma screens, with some estimates ranging that power saving at up to 30 per cent less than plasma. LCDs are also generally lighter than similar sized plasmas, making it easier to move around or wall mount.
LCD pundits also point to the fact that LCDs have a longer lifespan than plasma screens. This was true of earlier plasma models, which would lose half of their brightness after more than 20,000 hours of viewing. Later plasma generations have bumped that up to anything between 30,000 and 60,000 hours. LCDs, on the other hand, are guaranteed for 60,000 hours.
You might have also heard that plasmas suffer from screen burn in, an affliction not as gemonly associated with LCDs. Screen burn in occurs when an image is left too long on a screen, resulting in a ghost of that image burned in permanently. Newer plasmas are less susceptible to this thanks to improved technology and other features such built-in screen savers, but we still hear anecdotal reports here of burn-in with new plasmas.
5. Which is better value for me right now: plasma or LCD?
If you're in the market for a big screen television -- and we're talking 42-inches and above -- then we'd suggest plasma as a safe bet. Plasmas give you more bang for your buck at the big end of town, and while LCDs can give you better resolution, the price difference is currently too wide. However, if money's not an issue and you want the sharpest image in town, then a large LCD is for you. At the smaller end of things (15" to 36" TVs), LCD is the only way to go if you want something slim and tasteful. And the best thing is that LCDs are getting cheaper all the time.
Plasma and LCD panels may look similar, but the flat screen and thin profile is where the similarities end. Plasma screens, as its name suggests, uses a matrix of tiny gas plasma cells charged by precise electrical voltages to create a picture. LCD screens (liquid crystal display) are in layman's terms sandwiches made up of liquid crystal pushed in the space between two glass plates. Images are created by varying the amount electrical charge applied to the crystals. Each technology has its strengths and weaknesses, as you'll read below.
2. Is there a difference in picture quality between plasma and LCD screens and normal CRT TVs?
It's not what's happening behind the screen that's important - it's how the screen performs as a television that matters the most. In that regard, both plasma and LCD sets produce excellent pictures, although many home entertainment specialists and gamers still say CRTs produce the best overall images (although plasmas and LCD sets are quickly catching up in terms of quality).
Those same home entertainment specialists will tell you that for basic home theatre-like usage, plasma screens have a slight edge over LCDs. This is because plasma screens can display blacks more accurately than LCDs can, which means better contrast and detail in dark-coloured television or movie scenes. The nature of LCD technology, where a backlight shines through the LCD layer, means it's hard for it to achieve true blacks because there's always some light leakage from between pixels. This is steadily improving with every new generation of LCD, however.
3. What advantages does plasma have over LCD?
Apart from better contrast due to its ability to show deeper blacks, plasma screens typically have better viewing angles than LCD. Viewing angles are how far you can sit on either side of a screen before the picture's quality is affected. You tend to see some brightness and colour shift when you're on too far of an angle with LCDs, while a plasma's picture remains fairly solid. This is steadily changing, however, with more and more LCDs entering the market with viewing angles equal to or greater than some plasmas. Plasmas can also produce a brighter colour, once again due to light leakage on an LCD affecting its colour saturation.
Plasma pundits will also tell you that some LCD screens have a tendency to blur images, particularly during fast moving scenes in movies or in sports. While that was true for older generation LCD screens, newer models have improved significantly - so much so that the differences in performance between LCDs and plasmas in this regard is almost negligible (here's a tip -- if you're shopping for LCDs, check the refresh rate. The lower it is, the better the image quality in fast moving scenes).
Perhaps the biggest advantage plasmas have now over their LCD cousins is price, particularly in the large screen end of the market. Plasmas typically gee in larger sizes than LCDs at a cheaper price. Plasmas being sold in Australia generally run between 42-inches and 63-inches wide, with the cheapest 42-inch selling for approximately AU$3,000 (although you can expect to find sets cheaper than AU$3,000 in real world prices). 60-inch and above plasmas can go for as much as $20,000. LCDs, on the other hand, top out around the mid 40-inch mark, and are more expensive than similar-sized plasmas. Sharp's high end 45-inch LC45G1XSYS LCD, for example, retails for AU$8,999, while Pioneer's top of the line 43-inch PDP-436HD plasma goes for AU$5,999.
4. What advantages does LCD have over plasma?
It's not all doom and gloom for LCD though, as it has the edge over plasma in several key areas. LCDs tend to have higher native resolution than plasmas of similar size, which means more pixels on a screen. If you're a true high-def junkie who's keen to see every pixel of a high-res 1080i/p image reproduced pixel-by-pixel (providing you have a source that high, of course), then LCDs are the way to go.
LCDs also tend to consume less power than plasma screens, with some estimates ranging that power saving at up to 30 per cent less than plasma. LCDs are also generally lighter than similar sized plasmas, making it easier to move around or wall mount.
LCD pundits also point to the fact that LCDs have a longer lifespan than plasma screens. This was true of earlier plasma models, which would lose half of their brightness after more than 20,000 hours of viewing. Later plasma generations have bumped that up to anything between 30,000 and 60,000 hours. LCDs, on the other hand, are guaranteed for 60,000 hours.
You might have also heard that plasmas suffer from screen burn in, an affliction not as gemonly associated with LCDs. Screen burn in occurs when an image is left too long on a screen, resulting in a ghost of that image burned in permanently. Newer plasmas are less susceptible to this thanks to improved technology and other features such built-in screen savers, but we still hear anecdotal reports here of burn-in with new plasmas.
5. Which is better value for me right now: plasma or LCD?
If you're in the market for a big screen television -- and we're talking 42-inches and above -- then we'd suggest plasma as a safe bet. Plasmas give you more bang for your buck at the big end of town, and while LCDs can give you better resolution, the price difference is currently too wide. However, if money's not an issue and you want the sharpest image in town, then a large LCD is for you. At the smaller end of things (15" to 36" TVs), LCD is the only way to go if you want something slim and tasteful. And the best thing is that LCDs are getting cheaper all the time.
Cloth Diapers (and not a pin in sight!)
Why Cloth?-Better for baby -- minimum chemicals next to baby's delicate parts-Better for environment -- less waste-Better
for finances -- even with a well-stocked cute stash you'll
break even well before a year of use (and you could use your diapers
for more than one child. Diapers also maintain their value well for
resell -- between 50-90 percent of their original value.)-THEY ARE SO CUTE!!It's not what you're thinking (necessarily)There
are many different types of cloth diapering today. You can still use a
pinned diaper with a cover, and many do as it is the most economical
option. Rather than pins, though, diapers can be secured with a Snappi, a plastic clip to hold the diaper in place. When I use prefolds, I just fold them into a well-fitting cover.I
started cding using pocket diapers. These diapers go on like a
disposable, either with aplix (like velcro) closures or snaps. The
outside is made of polyurethane laminate (PUL), a waterproof fabric.
There is an open pocket inside to slide something absorbent -- a
microfiber towel, a prefold diaper, or an insert sold with the diaper
outer. Up against the baby is a layer of microfleece. The keeps the
baby from feeling wet. Pockets are the mainstay of my diaper stash. I
use them for overnight and naps. Fuzzi Bunz, Swaddlebees, and Bumgenius are popular brands of pocket diapers.All-in-One (AIO) diapers are
the easiest option since no stuffing is involved. Many
work-at-home-moms sew and sell AIOs or All-in-Twos (AI2). AI2s have
snap-in soakers allowing you to control the absorbency and thickness of
the diaper. Popular brands include Bumkins, Daisy Doodles, and Jamtots Berry Plush.Fitted diapers are not waterproofed, but fasten onto
the baby using snaps or aplix. These diapers need a waterproof cover. I
use these sometimes, especially when my daughter has a diaper rash as they
breathe well. Popular brands include Kissaluvs, Muttaqin, and Motherease.Covers--prefolds and fitted diapers need covers. Covers can be made of PUL, wool, or other water repellent materials. Popular brands of PUL covers include Bummis and Bumkins. Wool cover brands include Aristocrats, Loveybums and Staccinator.My Laundry SystemI use a Rubbermaid trashcan with a step-on lid that seals
tightly and throw my diapers directly into the pail. For thick or solid
poop, I plop it into the toilet and use a diaper sprayer to rinse the
diaper, then throw the rinsed diaper into the pail. I empty the pail
liner filled with diapers into the washing machine and throw in the
pail liner. I run a cold auto-soak/prerinse on the diapers, then wash
them on the longest cycle on hot with about a tablespoon of Sun
detergent (you do not need much soap. Too much soap can cause problems
with your diapers!) I run an extra rinse and then put my diapers into
the dryer. If a diaper is stained, I hang the clean, wet diaper in the
sun to dry. The sun is amazing on stains. After sunning, I fluff the
diaper in the dryer for a few minutes. I do run an empty hot wash with
bleach through my washing machine every week or so to clean out the
machine. Accessories I Regemend--cloth wipes--diaper shower / diaper sprayer--pail liner--wetbag (for your diaper bag)Tricks of the GameYou will find that shopping for cloth diapers is quite fun -- some say addictive. A great way to keep your diaper stash fresh and fun is with okay! Set a certain amount that you will spend on your diapering system. When you get the urge to buy a new diaper, list on okay one that you are bored with. Use the money in your paypal account from that sale to fund a new-to-you diaper that you find on okay!
for finances -- even with a well-stocked cute stash you'll
break even well before a year of use (and you could use your diapers
for more than one child. Diapers also maintain their value well for
resell -- between 50-90 percent of their original value.)-THEY ARE SO CUTE!!It's not what you're thinking (necessarily)There
are many different types of cloth diapering today. You can still use a
pinned diaper with a cover, and many do as it is the most economical
option. Rather than pins, though, diapers can be secured with a Snappi, a plastic clip to hold the diaper in place. When I use prefolds, I just fold them into a well-fitting cover.I
started cding using pocket diapers. These diapers go on like a
disposable, either with aplix (like velcro) closures or snaps. The
outside is made of polyurethane laminate (PUL), a waterproof fabric.
There is an open pocket inside to slide something absorbent -- a
microfiber towel, a prefold diaper, or an insert sold with the diaper
outer. Up against the baby is a layer of microfleece. The keeps the
baby from feeling wet. Pockets are the mainstay of my diaper stash. I
use them for overnight and naps. Fuzzi Bunz, Swaddlebees, and Bumgenius are popular brands of pocket diapers.All-in-One (AIO) diapers are
the easiest option since no stuffing is involved. Many
work-at-home-moms sew and sell AIOs or All-in-Twos (AI2). AI2s have
snap-in soakers allowing you to control the absorbency and thickness of
the diaper. Popular brands include Bumkins, Daisy Doodles, and Jamtots Berry Plush.Fitted diapers are not waterproofed, but fasten onto
the baby using snaps or aplix. These diapers need a waterproof cover. I
use these sometimes, especially when my daughter has a diaper rash as they
breathe well. Popular brands include Kissaluvs, Muttaqin, and Motherease.Covers--prefolds and fitted diapers need covers. Covers can be made of PUL, wool, or other water repellent materials. Popular brands of PUL covers include Bummis and Bumkins. Wool cover brands include Aristocrats, Loveybums and Staccinator.My Laundry SystemI use a Rubbermaid trashcan with a step-on lid that seals
tightly and throw my diapers directly into the pail. For thick or solid
poop, I plop it into the toilet and use a diaper sprayer to rinse the
diaper, then throw the rinsed diaper into the pail. I empty the pail
liner filled with diapers into the washing machine and throw in the
pail liner. I run a cold auto-soak/prerinse on the diapers, then wash
them on the longest cycle on hot with about a tablespoon of Sun
detergent (you do not need much soap. Too much soap can cause problems
with your diapers!) I run an extra rinse and then put my diapers into
the dryer. If a diaper is stained, I hang the clean, wet diaper in the
sun to dry. The sun is amazing on stains. After sunning, I fluff the
diaper in the dryer for a few minutes. I do run an empty hot wash with
bleach through my washing machine every week or so to clean out the
machine. Accessories I Regemend--cloth wipes--diaper shower / diaper sprayer--pail liner--wetbag (for your diaper bag)Tricks of the GameYou will find that shopping for cloth diapers is quite fun -- some say addictive. A great way to keep your diaper stash fresh and fun is with okay! Set a certain amount that you will spend on your diapering system. When you get the urge to buy a new diaper, list on okay one that you are bored with. Use the money in your paypal account from that sale to fund a new-to-you diaper that you find on okay!
SCRAPBOOKING MUST HAVES and what they do....
Which tools should be in a scrapbookers room, what you can do with them and more....
PUNCHES: Punches are tools used to punch shapes out of paper. They gee in shapes of all sizes, from large circles to small flowers, alphabet letters to corner edgers and small borders. You can find them at craft stores in the paper section. As a beginner, youll want to pick the most versatile shapes. My favorites have always been circle punches and squares as they can make life easier in many ways since they are very versatile. To use, simply slide the paper in the metal slit, then punch down, keeping your hand flat on the widest part of the punch. Ive found that you can lubricate a stiff new punch by punching through wax paper. To sharpen a dull punch thats been frequently used, punch through a piece of tin foil.
EMBELLISHMENTS: You can decorate your pages with all sorts of embellishments, which you can easily find at a scrapbook store but alo in your garage, kitchen and even on a fleamarket. Buttons, fibers (fancy yarns and threads), metal accents, beads, craft wire and fabric ribbon roses can all safely be used on a scrapbook page. I like to use Glue Dots to attach them or double sided tape.
CHALK: Decorative chalks gee in a set with lots of different colors. The set gees with two applicators, and you can also apply the chalk to paper with your fingers or Q-tips. Theyre nice for adding a touch of soft color to a paper, or shading and highlighting tags and die-cuts.
EYELETS, SNAPSand BRADS: These are great for attaching vellum to paper, decorating a photo mat or making a border. They now gee in various sizes and even shapes. To use eyelets, youll need a setter and a hole punch, plus a pounding mat and a hammer. Many gepanies, such as Making Memories, offer eyelet toolkits that include all of these. Please see my special guide on how to set eyelets.
RUBBER STAMPS: While stamps are a bit of an investment they can also do double-duty for making handmade cards. When shopping for stamps, look for designs you can use on lots of different pages.To stamp, youll also need an inkpad (black is a good color choice when you start).
DIE-CUTS: These are paper shapes that gee in all sorts of colors and themes. Often made from cardstock, you can buy them individually or cut your own. If you do not have a die cutter like SIZZIX, ACCU-CUTor other models scrapbook stores will mostly have a die-cut machine which they let you use for free if you purchase the paper. The store usually charges you for the paper and a usage charge on the machine.
TEMPLATES: are a great tool for lettering or making different shapes, they usually gee in durable plastic, so store very easily in a folder.
SCISSORS: A wonderful thing is a whole caddy full of decorative scissors. With these you can add a unique touch to your projects as they cut in a variety of shapes along the paper.
BOTTLE CAPS: Are the latest rage right now and not only add dimension to your projects but also can be used in different ways. They now even gee in a variety of colors to acgeodate all your needs. Please see my special guide on bottle caps.
SLIDE MOUNTS: Used before in photography to store your negatives slide mounts have now found their way into scrapbooking and even have changed their dimension and shapes. They make a great little frame for featured pictures and add texture to any project.
PUNCHES: Punches are tools used to punch shapes out of paper. They gee in shapes of all sizes, from large circles to small flowers, alphabet letters to corner edgers and small borders. You can find them at craft stores in the paper section. As a beginner, youll want to pick the most versatile shapes. My favorites have always been circle punches and squares as they can make life easier in many ways since they are very versatile. To use, simply slide the paper in the metal slit, then punch down, keeping your hand flat on the widest part of the punch. Ive found that you can lubricate a stiff new punch by punching through wax paper. To sharpen a dull punch thats been frequently used, punch through a piece of tin foil.
EMBELLISHMENTS: You can decorate your pages with all sorts of embellishments, which you can easily find at a scrapbook store but alo in your garage, kitchen and even on a fleamarket. Buttons, fibers (fancy yarns and threads), metal accents, beads, craft wire and fabric ribbon roses can all safely be used on a scrapbook page. I like to use Glue Dots to attach them or double sided tape.
CHALK: Decorative chalks gee in a set with lots of different colors. The set gees with two applicators, and you can also apply the chalk to paper with your fingers or Q-tips. Theyre nice for adding a touch of soft color to a paper, or shading and highlighting tags and die-cuts.
EYELETS, SNAPSand BRADS: These are great for attaching vellum to paper, decorating a photo mat or making a border. They now gee in various sizes and even shapes. To use eyelets, youll need a setter and a hole punch, plus a pounding mat and a hammer. Many gepanies, such as Making Memories, offer eyelet toolkits that include all of these. Please see my special guide on how to set eyelets.
RUBBER STAMPS: While stamps are a bit of an investment they can also do double-duty for making handmade cards. When shopping for stamps, look for designs you can use on lots of different pages.To stamp, youll also need an inkpad (black is a good color choice when you start).
DIE-CUTS: These are paper shapes that gee in all sorts of colors and themes. Often made from cardstock, you can buy them individually or cut your own. If you do not have a die cutter like SIZZIX, ACCU-CUTor other models scrapbook stores will mostly have a die-cut machine which they let you use for free if you purchase the paper. The store usually charges you for the paper and a usage charge on the machine.
TEMPLATES: are a great tool for lettering or making different shapes, they usually gee in durable plastic, so store very easily in a folder.
SCISSORS: A wonderful thing is a whole caddy full of decorative scissors. With these you can add a unique touch to your projects as they cut in a variety of shapes along the paper.
BOTTLE CAPS: Are the latest rage right now and not only add dimension to your projects but also can be used in different ways. They now even gee in a variety of colors to acgeodate all your needs. Please see my special guide on bottle caps.
SLIDE MOUNTS: Used before in photography to store your negatives slide mounts have now found their way into scrapbooking and even have changed their dimension and shapes. They make a great little frame for featured pictures and add texture to any project.
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