BUYING A KAWASAKI NINJA 600R - REVIEW AND VIDEO TEST

KAWASAKI GPZ400R and GPZ600R (1985-1990) (stills taken from video road test of the GPZ400R)
VIEW THE FREE TRAILER FROM OUR okay SHOP
This guide was written for the UK market so some details won't apply
MYVERDICT:
For

Retro cool
Many parts sharedbetween the 400 and 600
Alloy frame on the 400
The 400 is surprisingly almost as powerful as the 600
Adjustable suspension
gefortable by modern standards
Low-ish seat height
Against

Parts availability won't be great due to it's age
Soggy suspension by modern standards
Very few good original examples left
The 400 is less torquey than the 600
INTRODUCTION:
The GPZ400R and 600R were ground-breaking. The 600 kickstarted the whole 600 Supersports class that is still going strong today. The 400R is a scaled down version of the bike we're more familiar with in theUS but a lighter allow frame.
WHICH ONE TO GO FOR:
The 600R's are much more plentiful here as they were officially imported, the imported 400's are often ingood condition thanks to the lack of gritted roads in Japan.
RELIABILITY AND geMON FAULTS:
Reliability is quite good, fork seals suffer and carb diaphragms if they've been stored.
As with all imports that have been stored for any length of time, check for rust inside the fuel tank. Also, the 400R's can suffer from stuck piston rings that allow fuel into the oil. This can usually be cured by getting the engine very hot and good regular use after that.
Camshaft problems were gemon on the 600R, thanks to a high tickover from cold and no center stand leading to oil starvation on the right hand end. Carb icing was cured by heating the carb bodies with the cooling system, although this did reduce the power output. The steel frame also bent easily in crashes, this was strengthened later on.
MODEL HISTORY:
Introduced in 1985, the 600 created the class we know and love today. The 400 had a similar effect in Japan, where it was considered the best sports 400 for quite a few years.
The 400 had an alloy frame and remotely adjustable suspension. The 600 was less sophisticated with a steel frame and feweradjustments on thesuspension.
In 1987 the GPX was introduced, but the GPZ600R was sold along side it until 1990.
HOW TO AVOID BUYING A LEMON BY USINGMY BUYERGUIDE BELOW
Before seeing the bike:

If it is a private sale make sure you view thebike at the sellers premises - this will help determine if the seller is genuine
Always ask the seller to make sure thebike is cold when you gee to view it - warm engines can hide a multitude of sins
Find out whether the bike:

Has got an MOT certificate, is it taxed and for how long?
Has got a race can fitted and if so is the original included?
Has it ever been crashed?
Has got a current V5 and is registered in the sellers name?
Is there any outstanding finance, if you're in doubt buy a HPI report or similar?
Does the bike still have both original keys and the toolkit?
Does the bike have a service history, and if so is it a main dealer one?
How to check the bike:

On liquid cooledengines check for a film of oil in the radiator header tank before warming the bike up- the presence of oil would signify internal engine leaks or a blown head gasket.
Make sure the oil on the dipstick or in the sight glass is smooth and has no bits in it or milky scum - again this could mean internal engine leaks.
On starting from cold make sure the engine does not turn over sluggishly - this could mean a worn starter motorand/or a defective battery.
Check for oil leaks around the engine and on the ground where thebike has been stood - any leaks could indicate expensive oil seal replacement or crash damage.
Check all the lights work and that both levers activate the rear brake light.
Run a finger up the fork stanchions and check for oil and rust - leaking fork seals are fixable, but it will cost youif the forks need re-chroming, also sometimes dismantling forks will damage the fork bushes and they'll need replacing.
Check to make sure the rear shock isn't leaking oil and that any shock linkage is moving smoothly.
Find out how old the tyres are regardless of their apparent wear - some old tyres can appear fine until the conditions get slippy. If in doubt, factor in replacement.
If the bike is a European or American import check to see if the headlight has been altered for UK use.
Check the brake disks for obvious signs of wear, hairline cracks between the vent holes can indicate critically thin disks. Check the brake pads to make sure they still have plenty of material left.
If possible spin each wheel off the ground and check for damaged rims and worn wheel bearings.
With the front wheel off the ground carefully move the steering left and right of centre and feel for any notches in the head stock bearings
Check the Engine and Chassis numbers match the V5, sometimes, especially on imports there will be no engine number on the V5 but this does not necessarily mean a problem, it's optional when you are registering the bike in the UK.
Check the sprockets to make sure they're not 'hooked' and check the chain is not at the end of it's adjustment.
Check behind as many panels as possible for signs of repair. They may point to more serious accident damage, the quality of bodywork repair should indicate the quality of any other repairs. There's no substitute for orginal panels.
Check for bent levers, scuffed mirrors/bar ends/indicators for signs of a drop.
Road testing the bike:

Make sure the bike starts and idles easily, the tick over may have been set high to cover up idling problems or a rattly clutch basket.
Check for smoke on start up, a bike in good condition that has been run regularly should be smoke free, unless it's a 2 stroke of course.
Make sure the brakes do not bind and feel for pulsing through the brake levers, this indicates a warped disk.
Make sure you can select all the gears easily and that you can find neutral when you gee to a stop.
Check for a slipping clutch by accelerating hard in top gear from a lowish speed.
Finally, trust your instincts about the car and the seller and do not let your heart rule your head - if you are not happy just walk away!!
Want tosee why if the GPZ400R is a modern classic? Does it make a good first bike? How fast does it go and how far on one tank of fuel? What it's really like toride and live with in the real world? You cansee theGPZ in action (warts and all) in our geprehensive and fully independent video road test - simply click on the link below:
Download the video here